The subdued noises of hammering and sanding can be heard on the first floor of Bario Neal, a jewelry store in Philadelphia, where rustic artwork simulating nature adorns the warmly-lit walls.
Haley Farlow, a 28-year-old second-grade teacher, is currently awaiting a three-stone engagement ring she has been designing with her boyfriend. Both are mindful of price and have ethical considerations regarding the environmental impact and human exploitation associated with traditional mining. Consequently, they have decided to purchase lab-grown diamonds.
Farlow noted that the majority of her friends own lab-grown diamonds, which align with their lifestyle and the current economic climate. In the United States, sales of lab-grown diamonds surged by 16% in 2023 compared to the previous year, according to industry analyst Edahn Golan. These diamonds are significantly less expensive than those naturally mined.
Social media platforms are filled with millennials and Generation Z individuals who proudly share their decisions to buy lab-grown diamonds for reasons of sustainability and ethics. However, questions remain about their actual sustainability, given the large amounts of energy required for production and the lack of operational transparency from many major manufacturers.
Farlow mentioned that her lab-grown diamond ring feels “more special and fulfilling” due to the sourcing from reputable companies. Bario Neal’s offerings are either produced with renewable energy or feature carbon emissions offset by carbon credits, used for activities like tree planting, which sequester carbon.
Nevertheless, this level of sustainability is not standard across the lab-grown diamond industry. A significant number of these diamonds are produced in India, where approximately 75% of electricity is coal-generated. While companies frequently use terms like “sustainable” and “environmentally-friendly,” many do not publish their environmental impact reports or obtain third-party certification. An example is Cupid Diamonds, which claims eco-friendly production on its website but did not respond to inquiries requesting details about its sustainability practices. Nonetheless, solar energy is becoming more prevalent in India, and companies such as Greenlab Diamonds incorporate renewables in their operations.
China also plays a major role in the lab-grown diamond market, with producers like Henan Huanghe Whirlwind and Starsgem Co. However, they did not provide comments when contacted nor detail their energy sources. In China, coal supplied over half of the electricity in 2023.
In the United States, the company VRAI, which is part of Diamond Foundry, claims to maintain a zero-emissions diamond foundry in Wenatchee, Washington, powered by hydropower from the Columbia River. Martin Roscheisen, Diamond Foundry CEO and founder, stated via email that the energy used by VRAI to grow diamonds is roughly one-tenth of what is needed for traditional mining.
Diamond industry expert Paul Zimnisky noted that companies transparent about their supply chains and relying on renewable energy represent a small segment of production. Zimnisky also observed that numerous companies tout eco-friendliness without genuinely implementing sustainable practices.
The creation of lab-grown diamonds involves subjecting carbon to high pressure and temperature over several weeks, emulating the natural conditions that occur beneath the Earth’s surface. Although the technology has existed since the 1950s, it was primarily utilized for industrial applications like stone cutting and dental tools. As technological advancements have reduced production costs, companies can now produce diamonds with fewer imperfections, choosing size and quality, leading to declining prices. By contrast, natural diamonds form over billions of years, making them rare and their value more stable.
Although chemically indistinguishable whether created in a lab or mined naturally, experts can differentiate them using lasers to analyze atomic structures. The Gemological Institute of America assesses millions of diamonds annually. Despite the lower prices for lab-grown versions and their rising popularity among younger buyers, the mined diamond industry suggests that lab-grown diamonds may not retain their value over time.
Zimnisky predicts that within five to ten years, consumer willingness to spend thousands of dollars on lab-grown diamonds will diminish significantly. Meanwhile, natural diamonds are expected to maintain high price points for engagement rings.
Not all buyers, however, view engagement rings as investments. Cultural preferences, especially in regions such as China and rural areas of the United States, frequently favor natural diamonds for their long-term value. The perception of rapid depreciation can deter buyers from lab-grown selections, as discussed by industry analyst Golan. He emphasized the unique narrative tied to natural diamonds, which originate billions of years ago, a story not replicable with lab-grown stones. From Golan’s perspective, the most environmentally sound choice is repurposed or recycled diamonds, as they require no additional energy.
Page Neal, co-founder of Bario Neal, expressed a commitment to crafting jewelry that positively affects both people and the environment. Her store offers both lab-grown and natural diamonds, with full traceability of materials throughout their supply chain. Neal described jewelry as a powerful symbol preserving memories, serving as a reminder of the importance of ethically sourced materials that clients can proudly own.
This report is part of the Associated Press’s climate and environmental coverage, supported by several private foundations. The AP maintains responsibility for the content, adhering to established standards for working with philanthropic supporters.
