The author is an advocate for using the right tool in the kitchen and often experiences a fear of missing out on new or improved equipment. Recently, they evaluated a set of carbon steel knives produced by Steelport in Oregon, which impressed with their patinaed blades and sculptural wooden handles. While comparing these knives, particularly the bread knife, with their own affordable yet high-performing Mercer Culinary Millenia, the author questioned if they were keeping up with the style of Portlanders.
The Mercer Culinary Millenia knife, favored by America’s Test Kitchen for its serrated design, features a functional black plastic handle and proved to be a worthy replacement for the author’s previous, less effective knife. The earlier knife, a nostalgia-laden but poorly performing stainless-steel blade purchased in Paris at a discount due to a cracked handle, was easily outperformed by the Mercer.
At a preferred trade show, the writer pondered the Steelport 10-inch Bread Knife’s potential superiority compared to the $25 Mercer, despite its hefty $450 price tag. They theorized about whether it could be 18 times better and eventually concluded that, although it was not, it remained a high-quality option.
High-end knives like those from Steelport have considerable advantages. The Steelport Bread Knife, with its burl-wood handle and distinctive grey blade, stands out from more mundane kitchen options. Its blade, rated at 65 on the Rockwell C scale, is notably hard, albeit somewhat brittle. This attribute allows the blade to maintain a sharp edge for extended periods. Its handle design is more multi-planar than most, providing comfort, while the rounded blade spine minimizes the chance of blisters during prolonged use. The inclusion of a finger nook at the blade heel helps enhance grip. Additionally, the Mercer knife has pointier serrations compared to the Steelport’s, which have rounder tips, likened to navigating choppy seas versus rolling oceans.
To discern any significant differences, the author tested the knives on various breads over several months. Both knives adeptly sliced through sandwich bread without damaging it, a stark contrast to the results of using a dull chef’s knife. The author was initially concerned about cutting delicate items like croissants, especially horizontally, but found that both blades achieved clean edges and neat corners without issue.
