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Barcelona Eatery Presents Solution to City’s Overtourism Issue

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When individuals plan for a meal at a renowned restaurant located far from home, considerations of philanthropy and sustainability typically do not occur. However, for a chef based in Barcelona who recently received a significant culinary humanitarian award, this is an issue that requires attention.

Andres Torres, a former war correspondent, has transitioned his battlefield experiences into creating an esteemed dining establishment. Situated in the Catalan wine region of Penedés, Torres’s restaurant, Casa Nova, offers high-quality cuisine while encouraging patrons to contemplate the origins of their costly meals.

Torres has been awarded the prestigious Basque Culinary World Prize, including a €100,000 reward. This prize is granted to a restaurant that contributes to broader socio-economic benefits beyond its kitchen endeavors.

The ex-war reporter divides his time between managing Casa Nova and leading Global Humanitaria, a non-profit organization focused on providing food and clean water to communities in impoverished and war-affected areas.

Although it might seem improbable for one individual to manage both a culinary establishment and a global humanitarian organization, these ventures share surprising connections. Casa Nova, a Michelin Green Star restaurant, allocates a portion of its profits to Global Humanitaria. The culinary inspirations are derived from regions where Torres has both reported and participated in humanitarian efforts, such as Guatemala, Syria, and Ukraine.

Through an interpreter, Torres shared with Fortune that he discerned the effects of conflict on local food ecosystems during his reporting experiences. As a self-trained chef, he chose to convey this understanding to the public not through journalism, but through cooking at Casa Nova.

In the context of ongoing discussions about the negative impacts of tourism, Torres’s restaurant illustrates a concept that could foster more conscientious travelers.

With regard to conscious tourism, residents of Barcelona have expressed growing dissatisfaction with the resurgence of tourism across Europe, driven by the post-COVID-19 “revenge travel” trend. In addition to the climate and the architectural marvels of Gaudi, food tourism significantly attracts visitors to Catalonia.

The reaction from locals prompted actions such as using water pistols on unsuspecting dining tourists in July, along with chants of “go home” during walks down Las Ramblas.

Despite the challenges of reducing tourism to levels acceptable to residents—due to its role in employing millions and relatively open borders that draw international travelers—the negative aspects of over-tourism continue to affect local residents’ quality of life and financial well-being, as city accommodations increasingly serve short-term tourism needs.

Barcelona has plans to prohibit Airbnb-style short-term rentals by 2029 to increase housing availability for residents, although the impact on visitor numbers remains uncertain.

Balancing economic growth with addressing the frustrations of local populations has led some cities to seek compromises between eager tourists and distressed residents. While Barcelona utilized a firm approach to manage over-tourism, the Danish capital of Copenhagen opted for an incentive-based strategy.

In July, Copenhagen introduced the CopenPay program, rewarding willing tourists with free museum entries, lunches, and even kayak tours in exchange for community service participation. Fortune reported that free surfing lessons were available to those who aided in beach clean-ups for 30 minutes.

Amid the complex dynamics of Catalonia, Torres’s restaurant has become central to the growing interest in conscious capitalism. He is gaining popularity among Gen Z visitors attracted by his gastronomic humanitarian efforts, even if they cannot always afford a meal there.

Torres primarily targets high-net-worth individuals willing to align their financial resources with their ethical values. Many traveling food enthusiasts visit Casa Nova due to favorable reviews, often engaging in discussions with Torres about the origins of their meals.

Torres highlighted an instance where a wealthy diner donated funds, allowing him to construct a bunker for school children in Ukraine to shield them from ongoing military operations. Several philanthropic diners also evaluate their support for Torres’s humanitarian initiatives over dinner.

Recently, he recounted an occasion where Russian and Ukrainian patrons engaged in a discussion about the conflict while dining.

Torres advocates for more European restaurants to emphasize sustainability by elucidating the origins of their food, thereby offering tourists insights into both local and global ecosystems. If such practices became standard, tourists might depart with more than just a satisfying meal.

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