The KitchenAid stand mixer, a well-known domestic icon and essential for home cooks, has been a staple item in many households for nearly a century. Known for making tasks like baking cookies or birthday cakes easier, the appliance has generally escaped public criticism, except for its price point. A standard 5-quart tilt-head Artisan mixer costs around $350, whereas other brands offer mixers for approximately $100.
This status quo shifted with the introduction of KitchenAid’s latest Design Series model: the Evergreen. Launched in September, the Evergreen features a matte army green finish with a brass attachment insert cover and a 5-quart pure walnut bowl, which is sustainably certified by the European Union Timber Regulation. Accompanying the bowl are three steel accessories: a paddle, a dough hook, and a whip. However, this model comes at a steep price of $700—double the cost of a typical Artisan model. Despite this, KitchenAid reports that the first release sold out within a week, suggesting its potential appeal as one of the most popular stand mixers available.
However, some media outlets were quick to criticize the Evergreen. The Atlantic labeled it as “a $700 kitchen tool that’s meant to be seen, not used,” while Food & Wine noted that the wood bowl divided their staff. The Washington Post described the walnut bowl as “perplexing at best, a gesture at aesthetics that renders the product useless.” The promotional material, which features scenes of hikers and fern fondling, reinforces the opinion that the mixer may appeal more to those who appreciate style over function.
Critics, however, may not have tested the mixer themselves. Experienced home cooks and bakers, including those involved in editing and recipe testing for well-regarded cookbooks, emphasize familiarity with KitchenAid products. The use of wooden kitchen tools and equipment, like wooden bannetons and cutting boards, is common, prompting some to question whether the wooden mixing bowl could present any real challenge.
Over a four-week period, a detailed examination of the Evergreen’s performance covered a variety of recipes, from meringues and cookies to bread and whipped cream, to evaluate whether the wooden bowl affected usability or if the criticisms were unfounded.
One initial issue identified was the absence of a handle on the wooden bowl—unlike its stainless steel counterpart—though in practice, the handle’s absence was not greatly missed. More significant, however, were the maintenance needs of the wooden bowl, requiring immediate washing, drying, and regular seasoning with mineral or walnut oil after use—a departure from typical baking routines.
This maintenance raises concerns especially considering certain recipes, like meringues and soufflés, require whipping egg whites to a stiff peak. Fat, including oil residue that might linger in a wooden bowl, can interfere with this process. KitchenAid’s product documents explicitly advise against using the walnut bowl for “whipped egg creations,” suggesting a potential limitation in its functionalities despite its high price.
